Over my six years in Japan, visiting izakayas has become one of my favorite pastimes. However, I think that much of that enjoyment has been tied to my ever-growing understanding of Japanese language and culture and thanks to the many friends and bar-buddies who have helped me gain that understanding. There are so many unspoken rules and ways of doing things at izakaya that will not only help you fit in, but also make the experience so much more memorable as well.
My goal with this article is to share a little bit of that wisdom for people who are visiting Tokyo or just arriving to live here for the first time. I’ll add a few tips that old-timers may want to weigh in on as well. Like many parts of Japanese culture, ducking under an izakaya’s half-curtain for the first time can be daunting, but if you follow this guide, you’ll be well on your way to an authentic izakaya experience in Tokyo. Kanpai!
1. Ditch the bags
The first piece of advice starts before you even walk out your door: don’t bring all your stuff. Izakayas are “cozy” establishments, to put it one way. You’ll generally have a small basket on the floor or a cubby under the seat which will store a moderately-sized purse or small backpack, as well as hangers for jackets and coats. In the smallest izakayas, there is literally not space for a suitcase or bigger bag. Make sure you’re the type of visitor who the owner is happy to see when you walk in; leave the big bags at home.
2. Smoking is often allowed
Be aware that many izakayas allow smoking inside. Trips to an izakaya may result in a smoky, oily smell in your clothes, so dress accordingly. You can also pick up clothing deodorizing spray at drug stores which will help for outerwear you can’t easily wash.
3. Don't hesitate on the first round
Your first round at the izakaya, try to order drinks for everyone. Even if you don’t drink alcohol, it’s polite to get a soft drink for everyone at least in the first round. Izakayas usually have many types of tea, soda, and juice on hand as non-alcoholic options.
You can also add in a food order if you already know what you want, but go ahead and order drinks if you’re not sure. You may also receive a small appetizer known as an otoshi, usually pickles or something simple, which is included in the table charge.
A common first drink order is the toriaezu nama de, meaning “I’ll stick with a beer to start.” Hearing such an experienced, colloquial phrase from a foreigner will certainly draw a laugh and get you in the good graces of anyone within earshot. I’ll list this along with other izakaya vocab down at the bottom with a pronunciation guide.
4. Sumimasen: your favorite word at an izakaya
Another word you’ll need to know is sumimasen, the magical word which tells the barkeep “I’m ready for the next round” (or, more accurately, “excuse me”). The staff rushing around in the tiny kitchen can look intimidating, but don’t be afraid to throw a sumimasen over to them–they’ll get to you when they can. For best results, I recommend a high-pitched nasally sumimasen to cut through the clamor. Alternatively, some larger izakayas have a "pin-pon" button on each table, so double-check before you order!
5. Pace yourself and eat family-style
When you visit an izakaya, order a couple dishes at a time. The great thing about izakayas are the fact that you’re not ordering one huge main dish for each person (side-eyeing you, America), but many smaller dishes to share.
Be prepared to take your time and fill up over multiple rounds of ordering. I recommend starting with some quick dishes like edamame or cucumber pickles off the otsumami portion of the menu to take the edge off your hunger. If you want fried food, it may take a little longer to prepare (a sign it’s being done right), so keep that in mind as well.
6. Don't miss food and drink pairings
The best way to enjoy an izakaya menu is to take it slow (as mentioned above) and intentionally consider the pairings of the food and drink.
For example, edamame and yakitori generally go well with beer. Karaage fans debate on which of lemon sour or highball is the better pairing. If you’re wanting to get some sashimi, I recommend saving it for later to go with something more subtle and elegant like nihonshu. These aren’t hard and fast rules, but these widely accepted pairings really do make a big difference in flavor and overall experience.
7. Don’t be surprised if you make some friends
If you’ve come into the izakaya without being a bull in a china shop, there’s a good chance people around you will strike up a conversation. People of all ages like hearing where you’re from, what you’re doing in Japan, and anything you’ve liked so far. It’s great to ask questions back about their recommendations at the izakaya and their experiences abroad. You’ll find a lot of oji-san like to share about their time studying abroad in Michigan fifty years ago or ask your opinion on American folk artists from the 70s that you’ve never even heard of. These are the charming, memorable interactions that mark a night at an izakaya.
Here are a couple of suggestions for culturally appropriate ways to connect with others. When you kanpai with others, lower your glass below others’ as you clink as a subtle gesture of respect. Additionally, if you’re really getting to talk to someone and they’re having a pourable drink like a bottled beer or nihonshu, pour the next glass for them as it starts getting low. This is the key to many an oji-san’s heart.
8. Hashigo: no need to stop at one
Speaking of that oji-san, this dinner time izakaya visit for you is his fifth stop of the day. That’s because he’s learned the Japanese art of hashigo, a term for pub crawl literally meaning “ladder.” If you’re planning on staying out for a while, don’t get too attached to any one izakaya. Feel free to do a couple rounds and move on up the ladder!
9. The last dish isn’t dessert
Izakaya menus are divided by type of food, from the otsumami quick bites to fried food to stewed dishes. The most uniquely Japanese part of the menu is the shime, coming from the Japanese word for closing or ending. The shime is usually a ramen, rice dish, or something else heavy and carby which satisfies the sleepy, tipsy hunger that comes at the end of the night. Trust me, finishing off the meal with a good shime just feels right.
10. Keep the right mindset
For me, izakayas are special because of the environment they create for their patrons. The food and drink are undeniably remarkable, but they aren’t the end goal of visiting an izakaya. Take pictures of the food, savor the drinks and the novelty of it all, but remember that the core tenet of the izakaya experience is the conversation you have and memories you make while you’re there. If you enter this hazy, dimly-lit world of Japanese izakaya, hours pass quickly and you’re left with an experience like no other.
I hope this guide has been a good first step towards a true Japanese izakaya experience! Please leave a comment down below if you have any thoughts or questions, and thank you for reading.
Glossary for Izakaya Experience in Tokyo
Otoshi - (oh-toh-shee) a small dish served automatically as a table charge, usually in the range of 300 to 600 yen per person
Toriaezu nama de - (to-ree-ai-zu nah-mah day) a colloquial way to order a beer as your first drink, nama refers specifically to a draft beer
Sumimasen - (soo-mee-mah-sen) "excuse me," used to ask for the server's attention at an izakaya, don't worry about perfect pronunciation, just draw out the "sen" at the end
Otsumami - (oh-tsoo-mah-mee) the appetizer section of the menu with small bites that go well with alcohol
Yakitori - (yah-ki-to-li) style of chicken skewers which are a common main dish at some izakayas
Karaage - (kah-lah-ah-ge) Japanese fried chicken, an izakaya staple
Nihonshu - (nee-hon-shoo) the proper term Japanese sake; "sake" by itself just means alcohol so make sure to be specific
Oji-san - (oh-gee-san) a generic term for Japanese old men
Kanpai - (kan-pai) the Japanese version of "cheers!"
Hashigo - (ha-shee-go) literally "ladder," refers to a pub crawl of multiple izakayas right after another
Shime - (shee-may) literally "closing" or "ending," the section of an izakaya menu with hearty rice and carb-based dishes meant for finishing a meal
Read More from Your Friend in Tokyo
Hi! I'm a Tokyo local, and I started this blog to share helpful tips that only a local would know and tell some stories of the city's authentic culture. I'd hope you'll take a look around the site and find something that makes your Tokyo experience even more memorable!
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